September 18, 1999

Along the same Baga river when the moon, and not the sun, is making the water sparkle, step into J & A's Little Italy. As Jamshed guides you to a table, you overhear animated discussions about the latest books to the disappointing fare at the Flea Market this week. People are swapping tables to greet old friends (as they all appear after about three days in North Goa!) and exchange gossip. For pastas rich in meat sauces and herbs, tasty salads with sharp dressing of olive oil and other (secret) ingredients, and you are in the right place. Ayesha peers out of her kitchen window puffing on a cigarette to check how many people are still sitting out on the balcao patiently waiting to get a table. This is the normal scene here. If you walk away without ordering the light as a pashmina cheesecake, you will never forgive yourself.

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